Mai Tai


Trader Vic's Original Mai TaiFew drinks are as synonymous with the Tiki Bar concept as the Mai Tai, and few restaurants/bars are as tightly intertwined with the Tiki Bar culture as Trader Vic’s. There is a good reason for this connection, and that’s because Victor “Trader Vic” Bergeron was the inventor of the Mai Tai back in 1944.

Back then, there were two main powerhouses in the wave of Polynesian Inspired establishments that were starting to sweep the nation, Don the Beachcomber and Trader Vic’s. Don was first on the scene, but Victor followed soon after and took his cues well to build what would eventually become a world-wide chain of restaurants. While it might seem like the colorful and fruity concoctions coming out of these bars were more whimsy than might seem safe, both Don and Victor took their drinks very seriously indeed. In each of their restaurants they would build up a collection of unbeatable recipes that fully embodied the culinary sensibilities that all great cocktails should have, they just chose to hide them within creative, if not comical, glassware and garnishes.

Competition was fierce back in those days, not just between Don and Victor, but amongst all of the upstart Tiki bars that were following in their wake. With the signature cocktails playing such an important role, many of these bars would surround their prize recipes in secrecy. Many of the recipes were so secret in fact that the bartenders themselves didn’t know how they were made. This might seem impossible, but since most of these drinks relied upon combinations of various juices, syrups, and flavorings, it really wasn’t too hard, Certain flavorings would be pre-mixed in batches by special staff, and then given to the bartenders as simply “Don’s Syrup #1”, “Don’s Syrup #2”, etc. The bartenders would thusly be able to make great cocktails, without really knowing what the ingredients were.

Which brings us back to the Mai Tai.

If you look hard enough, you will find several dozen different recipes for the Mai Tai. You will find them with all sorts of different ingredients, including pineapple juice, passion fruit syrup, grenadine, falernum, or orange juice. Which can make it fairly hard to understand what a real Mai Tai should taste like. This all came about because of this secrecy. A customer would have a wonderful Mai Tai at a Trader Vic’s, and then a week later would be at another bar and want to relive that experience. The bartender unfortunately would have no clue what the recipe was, but might attempt to work something out based on what aspects of the drink the customer could recollect. If the customer was pleased with the result, then that recipe would become that bar’s “Mai Tai” from that point forward. Which is why today you’ll find such a wide variety of drinks going by that name, some of them good, but none of them actually a Mai Tai.

You can read about the whole story of the creation of the Mai Tai on Trader Vic’s website as well as the evolution of the recipe over the years (basically simplifying it and making mild alterations as ingredients became hard to find). But here is my interpretation of this recipe which is as simplified as possible while still staying true to Trader Vic’s original recipe:

Mai Tai

  • 1 ounce light rum
  • 1 ounce gold rum
  • 1/2 ounce orange curaçao
  • 1/2 ounce Orgeat (Almond Syrup)
  • 1/2 ounce fresh lime juice
  • 1 ounce dark rum (optional)

Shake all but the dark rum with ice. Strain into old fashioned glass. Top with the dark rum.
Garnish with a maraschino cherry, and a sprig of mint.
Serve with short straws

.

The “secret ingredient” in the Mai Tai is the Orgeat, its flavor should be present, but not overly so. If you have trouble finding Orgeat in your area, you should be able to find clear “Almond Syrup” anywhere that they sell coffee syrups and flavorings. The only real difference between Orgeat and Almond Syrup is that Orgeat is usually slightly cloudy, and usually has a little bit of orange flower water added to it.

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My Dad’s long time friend Don Beach invented the Mai Tai long before Vic got into the business.

Aloha!
Lehua

Lehua,

Here a strange issue arises. There are some who do in fact say that Don Beach invented the Mai Tai, and while there are good reasons to say this, in the end the fact remains that the drink that has been recognized by history as the “Mai Tai” was in fact created by Victor Bergeron.

Let me explain. In Arnold Bitner’s book “Hawai’i - Tropical Rum Drinks & Cusine by Don the Beachcomber”, Mr. Bitner claims that the “Mai Tai” was created in 1933 by Don Beach, and Mr. Bitner has told me that he has a Don the Beachcomber menu listing the Mai Tai prior to the 1944 date claimed by Victor Bergeron. However in the same book, Mr. Bitner lists the recipe for the “original” Mai Tai, and if you try it you will quickly see that it bears no resemblance to the drink celebrated today. If in fact this was the first drink to go by the name “Mai Tai”, it not only didn’t last long on Don’s menu, but neither did it last long the the memories of the general public. So I conclude that Victor Bergeron created his own drink, which was totally different from that of Don Beach, and it simply had the same name. The same problem is often seen today. There was a drink from before the 1930’s known as a “Cosmopolitan”, but the inventor of that drink (which is unknown) would not be able to claim rights to the drink as seen today.

There is however a second act to this story. One which Jeff Berry lists in his book “Sippin’ Safari”. He states that even Don says that the Mai Tai is just a rip-off of his “Q. B. Cooler”.

Victor admits to being inspired to turn his restautant “Hinky Dinks” into “Trader Vics” by a 1937 visit to one of Don’s restaurant, and it can only be assumed that he would likely have had a Q.B.Cooler, which might have provided some level of inspiration for some of his cocktails in general, and perhaps the Mai Tai in specific.

The problem however is that Don’s recipes were of course very secret, and so if Victor were to try to copy one of his recipes, it would essentially need to be simply by taste, since few, if any, of the ingredients would be known to him.

Jeff Berry was able to uncover the recipe for Don’s Q.B.Cooler, and it included orange juice, club soda, rum, lime juice, honey mix, falernum, bitters, and ginger syrup. A recipe which bears little resemblence to the T.V. Mai Tai, but when assembled properly, does in fact have a taste profile very similar to a Mai Tai.

As Jeff Berry states in his book:

“Our Verdict: While Vic might have been trying to clone the Q. B., in the process he created a new formula, one very much his own.”

And it was this “new formula” which caught the attention of the general public, and which has been attempted to be imitated for over 60 years. So in my mind, Victor Bergeron is the originator of the drink I know of as the “Mai Tai”.

None of which should be seen as a slight against Don Beach. He originated the very concept of the Polynesian inspiried “Exotic” restaurant, as well as a grand many of the classic rum-based drink of the era. My hat goes off to him.

-Robert