The Two Beer Cultures
I’m reading a book by Ken Wells called Travels with Barley. According to the dust jacket, Wells has been with the Wall Street Journal for 22 years. Presumably, if he’s still there, that number is bigger by a couple of years since the book was published in 2004. The premise of Wells’ book is that he’s on a search for the “Perfect Beer Joint.” I’m a little jealous of all these guys and gals who figure out ways to drink beer and get paid for it. So every time I turn the page I’m thinking, “Hey, I want a Wall Street Journal expense account so I can drive around (seemingly) aimlessly looking for a place to slake my unquenchable thirty for God’s gift to humankind.”
Reading Travels with Barley is an eye-opener for me since Wells (a solid reporter) covers every angle of American beer culture, including those elements of beer culture that I’m almost completely unaware of. My own “travels with barley” has followed a trajectory that skipped over American Light Lager completely and straight into the dark imports and from there into craft beer and homebrewing. Even though my beer world is populated mainly with thousands of varieties of craft brew and a steady stream of beer brewed by myself and my friends, there’s a whole world of beer out there populated with people who actually like that pale straw colored beverage made with rice and corn.
While that realization might seem impertinent or condescending, it reflects the real surprise of a craft beer person who firmly (even religiously) believes that if every American Light Lager drinker would just try a “good beer” they would never return to what I called Spüllwasser (or dishwater) a few weeks ago. After reading Wells’s personal portraits of people who drink this beer related beverage as if it were beer, I’m a little ashamed of my apparent elitism. It’s not really elitism, just genuine incredulity mixed with a strong desire to proselytize and to bring my light lager drinking cousins into the Promised Land flowing with Milk Stout and Honey Cream Ale.





I think my main issue with his book (note: I did enjoy reading it) was the fact that my definition of a great beer bar and his definition seem to differ quite a bit. While I wouldn’t necessarily call myself a beer elitist, I will rarely order the same beer back to back if I have a good selection to choose from.
I know that we’re all different, and some of us go into our favorite restaurants and order our “usual” entree every time. But I like to switch it up and try different things. I would never consider a bar with a limited selection to be a great beer bar.
There are people out there that drink the same beers every single day of their lives and for them they might find a limited selection to be fine. But not me. I guess our personal differences are some of the things that makes life interesting.
Give me a rotating tap list of about 15 craft/imports, a solid to impressive bottle list, a friendly openminded staff and a good “smoke eater” and I’ll add it to my list of potential “perfect beer joints”!