The Two Beer Cultures


Ken Wells\'s Travels with BarleyI’m reading a book by Ken Wells called Travels with Barley. According to the dust jacket, Wells has been with the Wall Street Journal for 22 years. Presumably, if he’s still there, that number is bigger by a couple of years since the book was published in 2004. The premise of Wells’ book is that he’s on a search for the “Perfect Beer Joint.” I’m a little jealous of all these guys and gals who figure out ways to drink beer and get paid for it. So every time I turn the page I’m thinking, “Hey, I want a Wall Street Journal expense account so I can drive around (seemingly) aimlessly looking for a place to slake my unquenchable thirty for God’s gift to humankind.”

Reading Travels with Barley is an eye-opener for me since Wells (a solid reporter) covers every angle of American beer culture, including those elements of beer culture that I’m almost completely unaware of. My own “travels with barley” has followed a trajectory that skipped over American Light Lager completely and straight into the dark imports and from there into craft beer and homebrewing. Even though my beer world is populated mainly with thousands of varieties of craft brew and a steady stream of beer brewed by myself and my friends, there’s a whole world of beer out there populated with people who actually like that pale straw colored beverage made with rice and corn.

While that realization might seem impertinent or condescending, it reflects the real surprise of a craft beer person who firmly (even religiously) believes that if every American Light Lager drinker would just try a “good beer” they would never return to what I called Spüllwasser (or dishwater) a few weeks ago. After reading Wells’s personal portraits of people who drink this beer related beverage as if it were beer, I’m a little ashamed of my apparent elitism. It’s not really elitism, just genuine incredulity mixed with a strong desire to proselytize and to bring my light lager drinking cousins into the Promised Land flowing with Milk Stout and Honey Cream Ale.



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I think my main issue with his book (note: I did enjoy reading it) was the fact that my definition of a great beer bar and his definition seem to differ quite a bit. While I wouldn’t necessarily call myself a beer elitist, I will rarely order the same beer back to back if I have a good selection to choose from.

I know that we’re all different, and some of us go into our favorite restaurants and order our “usual” entree every time. But I like to switch it up and try different things. I would never consider a bar with a limited selection to be a great beer bar.

There are people out there that drink the same beers every single day of their lives and for them they might find a limited selection to be fine. But not me. I guess our personal differences are some of the things that makes life interesting.

Give me a rotating tap list of about 15 craft/imports, a solid to impressive bottle list, a friendly openminded staff and a good “smoke eater” and I’ll add it to my list of potential “perfect beer joints”!

Beerinator- Amen! I want to live next door to Max’s in Baltimore. 75 some odd taps. 300 some odd bottles to choose from. Heaven on earth. It’s interesting you should comment. I have beermapping.com open in another window right now and I’m planning my next excursion in my own project to find the perfect beer joint. The only downside of finding a Max’s in Baltimore is knowing that I live hundreds of miles away. The beer selection only taunts me.

It’s the classic struggle between die-hard single brand drinkers and wide-ranging craft drinkers. I think beerinator is typical of most people who appreciate craft brews–try something new whenever possible but generally avoiding American macros. These are the folks 98% of American beer drinkers might term “beer snobs”. Only, then, in the black/white world of the Big 3 Brewers’ fans is the tendency to try as many things as possible “snobbery” while never drinking anything but a single brand is the opposite.

Even more depressing than the macro-swilling diehards are the millions of people who, surrounded by them, declare without hesitation that they “don’t like beer”. That’s like saying they “don’t like cookies” or they “don’t like soda” to people in the know. But the term “beer” in America connotes rice/corn ridden, heavily carbonated, flavorless beverages. Many of these people would probably–could their preconceptions be set aside briefly–love a wit beer or hefeweizen. But alas, they’ll never be persuaded to touch the stuff.

We should definitely, however, do as you suggest Mr. Hall: proselytize. Keep talking about how tasty your amber is. Point out that your stout has fewer calories than their “Lite” beer. Offer tastes to showcase the difference in each of your pints.

One by one, we may make this a better world for beer.

Actually, supporting one group over the others exclusively is the DEFINITION of elitism:
“Advocacy of or reliance on the leadership and dominance of an élite.” (OED online)

I mean don’t get me wrong, I love good/microbrew beer. But I don’t see any problem with people drinking whatever they want. I do see a problem with telling them they don’t know what they like, or that they wouldn’t like it if they know more. That’s what religious evangelists do, and I try and stay as far from them as possible. :) I mean I love fois gras but I also love hot dogs. What’s the problem with that?

There’s room for everyone’s tastes! Yay capitalism.

Actually, supporting one group over the others exclusively is the DEFINITION of elitism

Doesn’t this definition make those who demand a single brand the elitists? The beauty of beer is that there are so many wonderful varieties. I would argue, then, that those who demand a certain style e.g., American Light Lager are the more elitist as compared to the alternative. How many people who drink craft beers do you know who only drink ambers? Or hefeweizens? Or IPAs (this may be the hop-head exception)?

Of course, paying $.45-.55 per can has its merits too… yay capitalism.

TheName and jenny– You are both making some good points. Choice is good. Person freedom is good. Elitism is good as long as you keep it to yourself and don’t taunt people like the Church Lady (showing my age?). The only thing that has me stumped is this “yay capitalism” stuff. It’s good bait, but I’m not going there. I’ll give you one reason to fear capitalism though, that’s A-B’s “One World, One Beer” philosophy. I can think of nothing more frightening than that.

I don’t ask for much - just a great beer selection AND a great pub setting. Ten years ago you might have had to choose one or the other, but the availability of excellent craft beer is wide enough now that quality neighborhood drinking establishments may well be in great danger of extinction than quality beer.

I like the story that John Hill of Broad Ripple Brewpub in Indianapolis tells about when he was growing up in Yorkshire, England.

While it may have appeared to an outsider that neighboring pubs were serving the same beer, the locals knew better. “One cellarman might be adding a little brown sugar, another kept his beer a little fresher.”

So Hill’s father had his favorite pubs, but if one of them was nearly empty while the place across the street was busy, he would head to the one with customers. “An Englishman doesn’t drink alone.”

And what’s a great selection? Well cared for beer that I will enjoy and a variety broad enough to accommodate my friends (who may favor mainstream products).