Megabrew versus Craftbrew
I was planning on coming back to my little series on Washington breweries this week, but I keep running across other bits of interesting information in the beer world that I want to share with you.
Everyday I check the beer news. While everyone else in the world is keeping an eye on wars and terrorists, I’m blithely ignoring all that to keep up with the latest brews and what the megabrewers are doing to water down American Craft Beer Culture.
So far I’ve ignored Anheuser-Busch’s attempts to compete with commercial craftbrewers. Several of my colleagues on other blogs have written about A-B’s Beach Bum Blonde Ale and their Jack’s Pumpkin Spiced Ale, but I’ve remained silent (partly because my drinking card has been so full this summer, that I haven’t had a chance to sample either of these A-B imitators). But I am paying attention to what my colleagues are saying.
While I’m skeptical that any good can come of A-B making beer that looks like craft brew to the uneducated consumer, there are many in the craft beer world, amateur and professional alike, that welcome A-B attempts to make good beer. I found this quotation in an article in the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel last week: Deb Carey, the president of New Glarus Brewing Company in Wisconsin said, “The more big brewers play around in craft brewing, the more it lends credibility to the [craft beer] segment [of the market].” [quoted from “Anheuser-Busch gets crafty with brewing” by Tom Daykin of the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel (6 Aug 2006)]
I think that Carey has the credibility arrow pointing the wrong way. It’s craft beer that is enabling “the beer industry” to cultivate that image of sophistication that A-B wants to appropriate for its “Here’s to Beer” campaign (see my article on the subject from last February). Of course, Carey is really speaking about the appeal of craft beer to the megabrew drinker. I get the impression that Carey hopes for a beer-buying trickle-down effect. If the megabrew drinker likes Beach Bum or Jack’s Pumpkin, then maybe they will be tempted to buy real craft beer. Unfortunately, I don’t think it will work that way. I fear that ultimately A-B will do to craft beer what it did to most of America’s historic breweries—either buy them or put them out of business.
Actually, as long as there are amateur craft brewers the Craft Beer Culture in the US will be secure, so I’m not all doom and gloom with respect to A-B’s foray into craft-like beer. Currently there are something like 1300 commercial craft beer producers in the US. The sales from all of these producers together amounted to only around 3.5 percent of the total market. Not a very large slice of the pie. You have to wonder why A-B would even bother. They control the largest share of the beer market with their undemanding straw-colored grain tea. You would think that they would leave the hard work of making full flavored beer to the craft beer producers and stick with making a beverage they know more about.





Donavan:
I know past history has been a bit tough with A-B for you but this sort of thing has happened in the wine industry with good results for years.
Many of the big corporate vintners own several different brands/labels/wines and they are targeted at different consumers or market segments.
You have everything from the generally accepted average wines that that are blended to taste exactly the same from bottle to bottle year to year and maybe aren’t all that interesting to some, to the high-end, hard-to-get wines where each vintage has its own character and characteristics.
It may or may not be obvious to the casual observer that the labels are related. But when they are sometimes that actually helps the consumer move up the quality line. They have learned to trust the brand and are more willing to pay a bit more for something else since they “know” the producer or have a relationship with them.
In fact even some of the smaller wineries do the same thing.
One of the advantages of this relationship between large and small is that the big guys have great distribution lines in place, which become available for their smaller entities.
And (in regards to your previous post) although it’s nice to drink NY wines while in NY, it’s also nice to be able to sometimes find them in Washington. How boring our world would be if we were limited only to what could be found within a 100 mile radius. (Although I am a huge proponent of local foods/wines/beers/products.) I just don’t think we should be limited to only those goods.
I could say more but this is only supposed to be a comment…
~ B