The Real Eggnog
Editor’s Note: Mixology Mania has begun! This post and recipe comes to us from Thomas Becket a contributor to one of our sister blogs, Paper Palate. Thomas blames me for getting him involved in the Well Fed sites but I take no responsibility! However, Thomas does get “bonus points” as his recipe is fit for a crowd!
The presence of eggnog during the holidays is almost a cliché, particularly with the custardy confections found in the dairy case these days. 
It became cliché for a good reason, but true eggnog is not so widely found any more. The eggnog I serve is a recipe from Bill Neal’s Biscuits, Spoonbread and Sweet Potato Pie (Knopf, 1990). Neal led the revival of Southern Cooking as a cuisine and his books reflect the depth of this food tradition. He devotes three pages to the history of eggnogs, syllabubs and possets and their pathway into American tradition. As Neal describes:
“A true eggnog is highly alcoholic and not very sweet. Those accustomed to the unctuous qualities of so-called eggnog mixes from the commercial dairy are usually taken aback at the robust flavors of the true drink.The proper texture is achieved through time; the eggs are set, or cooked gently, by the alcohol of the whiskey.”
Neal’s eggnog is deceptively sweet, especially considering how little sugar is actually used in it. The flavors of four different spirits animate this delightful cup. It is well worth the trouble of finding rye, and an Amontillado sherry works quite well. This is the real deal, and is a holiday favorite in our family.
Eggnog
- 6 eggs, separated, at room temperature
- About 1/3 cup sugar, or to taste
- 1 c. brandy
- 1 c. rye whiskey
- 1/2 c. dry sherry
- 1/2 c. white rum
- 2 c. milk
- 2 c. heavy cream
- Freshly grated nutmeg
Beat the egg yolks until very light and doubled in volume. Slowly add the sugar, and continue to beat very hard while carefully adding the liquors. Stir in the milk and the cream. Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold in. Set aside or refrigerate several hours before serving. Garnish the cups with fresh nutmeg. 20 servings.
[…] Now, Alton’s recipe is light on the bourbon–just three ounces for that entire batch. (Brenda, on the other hand, uses twenty-four ounces of liquor in a nog that calls for six eggs. It’s interesting to compare their recipes: Alton’s a freakin’ lightweight.) […]