The Spirit World

It wasn’t that long ago that the majority of cocktail books verged on the side of being comical in nature, with little in the way of any substance beyond simply trotting out a variety of fanciful drinks. It was usually even suspect if the author had even tried, much less even familiar with, the drinks for which they presented recipes for. Confusion would ensue if you then actually tried to compare recipes for the same drink amongst two or more different books.

At a recently press party in New York, David Wondrich officially released “IMBIBE!“ his long awaited volume on the life, times, and libations of “Professor” Jerry Thomas, one of the historical icons of bartenders, or at least an icon to those bartenders who have taken the time to attempt to read between the lines of some of the recipes they are dispensing from behind the bar.

The primary focus of this book is to expand on, and explain, not only who Jerry Thomas was, but also what cocktails were like in his day, and how they evolved through history. Starting from a heavily researched retrospective of Jerry Thomas, David then goes on to describe in witty detail the collection of drinks which Professor Thomas included in the first known bartender’s guide from 1862. These drinks are the backbone of what we are still drinking today, and are clearly delightful drinks (for the most part, he carefully warns you in those instances where this might not be the case) worth having a clear understanding of.

The press party itself was held at New York’s famous “Flatiron Lounge”, a classically inspired art deco cocktail lounge which is on my personal short-short-list of best bars in New York. Throughout this well attended event, a variety of classic cocktails were presented to the attendees. From the bar they were serving such oft-overlooked classics as the Clover Club, Ward 8, and Fish House Punch, while downstairs a variety of mixologists (Toby Cecchini, Julie Riener, David Wondrich, Dale DeGroff, Audrey Saunders, and myself) were mixing up drinks specific to Jerry Thomas’ Bartender’s Guide (Gin Daisy, Martinez, Improved Whiskey Cocktail, Blue Blazer, Tom & Jerry, and Japanese) to a highly receptive audience.

I don’t think I’m exaggerating when I say that this book is perhaps one of the most important cocktail books to come out in modern days. Through Dave’s carefully researched insights, he shines a light on the colorful history of cocktails and other mixed drinks over the centuries. It also provides more information than has previously been gathered in one place regarding the important events and people who were at the center of the important transition of mixed drinks being merely a way to disguise poor booze into being a culinary artform of international acclaim. In addition to that, he covers in far more detail then has ever before been attempted the drink recipes of the era, and how they can be constructed to perfection by both modern bartenders as well as home mixologists.

The next time you find yourself out at a quality cocktail lounge, and see a Brandy Crusta, Japanese Cocktail, or a Gin Daisy on the menu, you’ll know to look in the direction of New York, and tip your glass to both David Wondrich and Professor Jerry Thomas.