Ride That Donkey
Imagine strolling through a field of lavender in Provence then being whisked
off on a high speed train to Languedoc. That’s how I would describe my first impression of Corbières “Fontanilles” Domaine des Deux Anes 2005. At the exceptionally reasonable price of $ 10, this artist pick is a winner. Dark, rich and smoky with structured tannins, it is aged in tank so there’s no oak here. Violets, lavender, tar, blackberry and a hint of licorice integrate beautifully and the finish is so dry, one is poised for a kiss.
Domaine des Deux Anes is situated in the maritime plain of the Corbières, between the Mediterranean and the lower hills with vineyards of Grenache, Carignan, Mourverdre and Syrah that stretch down towards the salt lagoons of Bages. The vines are grown organically and biodynamically, which is really exceptional and they benefit from lots of sunshine and low rainfall with an ever-present northwesterly wind, a dry wind that comes off the land and keeps the vines dry. An onshore wind brings with it a bit of moisture which reduces water stress in dry conditions and with a soil so deep and stony, it also allows the vines to resist drought.
The signature Carignan grape in the appellation Corbières is one of the world’s most prolific wine varieties, blended in many vins de table wines. This grape is a late-budder and doesn’t ripen until late in the season. Highly prone to mildew, it requires long, dry growing conditions and although it is not reputed as a great varietal, on these sloping hillsides with low yields, it is picked at full maturity, losing some of its austerity and gaining more finesse. Carignan rarely enjoys a marquee presence on wine labels as a varietal and in this case is blended with grenache noir and syrah. Grenache Noir, equally a traditional Languedoc grape imparts wonderful fruit and generosity while the Syrah with its moderate yields provides subtle floral aromas and red fruit flavors.
Why ride the donkey, you finally ask? They’re prominently displayed on the label and reflect the philosophy behind the domaine. Stubborn and doing their own thing off the beaten track, they follow their convictions unlike the mainstream and depart from conventional wine making.
If medieval villages, 12th century castles and vineyards situated in valleys surrounded by mountains or on slopes spilling down to salt lakes and the sea are appealing, then The Corbières of Languedoc is a great destination for your next wine tasting expedition.
