Heritage-Breed Bartenders
St. John Frizell–bartender and Charles Baker expert–has an article in this quarter’s Edible Manhattan about the genealogy of New York’s classic cocktail revival bartenders, from Dale Degroff through Audrey Saunders and her many mentees, including PDT’s Jim Meehan and Frizell himself.
It’s a really interesting article (including a tidbit about Jean-Georges-pastry chef-turned-bar back Johnny Iuzzini) and segues with a recent discussion on egullet about how, in many cocktailian bars these days, there’s a system in place to train potential bartenders in the art of the craft, turning barbacks into the cocktail contest-winning stars of tomorrow.
Harry Johnson would be proud–I finally had the chance to dig into my Mud Puddle reprint of his Bartender’s Manual, and he has sections about forming a bartender’s union and “how to train a boy.” Aside from the perpetual wonderment of realizing every new idea is actually an old idea, it’s exciting to see cocktail culture proliferating itself.
For all the talk of fads and bubbles, I cannot imagine that the people will stop enjoying delicious cocktails made with fresh ingredients by bartenders who care about their craft. We cocktail nerds are living in wonderful times.
